Machu Picchu - you've seen photos in travel magazines, watched specials on public television, but nothing really prepares you for seeing it live the first time. It's almost an anti climax because there's a sense of deja vu, that you've already been here. Until you start climbing around the site and it starts to sink in, that you're walking on the same stones as the Inca high priests who engineered this amazing place.
But let me back up to the beginning of this trip which was in early June. We flew on TACA Air through San Salvador about which I knew nothing! It turned out to be a sparkling clean relatively new airport, the connection ran like clockwork even though we didn't speak Spanish and couldn't understand a word. Arriving in Lima a bit jet lagged, not from the time change as that's only 2 hours, but from taking a red-eye flight. The drive into the city takes about 40 minutes, not very pretty till you get to the better areas where our hotel, the Miraflores Park, was located. It's a fabulous hotel, one of the best in Lima, huge rooms looking out on the coastline - lovely rooftop pool, full gym, and a yummy breakfast buffet. After a nap we explored the nearby mall, a very big deal and the first of it's kind there, built cliffside over the ocean. It was a rare sunny day for Lima in June and we had lunch while watching all the paragliders! But the local markets are much more fun for shopping.
From Lima we flew over the Andes to Cusco which has a higher elevation (11,000+ feet) than Machu Picchu, so you take a little time to acclimate to the elevation here. First clue- there's complimentary oxygen in the airport! Cusco was much bigger than I expected, and much prettier. Plaza de Armas is the central square filled with flowers and people strolling, cobblestone streets leading off the square. The Cathedral here is stunning, more ornate gold leaf and silver and jeweled altars than many I've seen in Europe. Our hotel was the Monasterio, originally a 16th century monastery in the heart of the city. It was just charming with beautiful gardens among the huge stone cloisters. And if you are short of breath, you can get oxygen pumped into your room! When you arrive you're offered coca tea which isn't bad. I had a low grade headache on arrival for a couple of hours but the tea seemed to help.
We spent a day exploring the city and Sacsayhuaman (sounds like "sexy woman"), huge stones fitted together so tightly you can't put a piece of paper between them.It's believed this was a ceremonial site, and the Spanish used it for a quarry after defeating the Incas. Above this site we had our own ceremony with a shaman, a blessing for Mother Earth in the native Quechua language - luckily our guide could translate which made it a very special experience.
As we left Cusco early in the AM there was frost on the ground. Taking just an overnight bag (no room for luggage on the train), we went by road for about an hour and a half to Ollantaytambo where we boarded the train to Aguas Calientes, another hour and a half. Beautiful scenery, changing rapidly - the mountains were raw, jagged, straight up in the air, jaw dropping. Arriving in the small town of Aguas Calientes, we boarded buses for the 25 minute trip up the mountains to Machu Picchu - all switchbacks, I lost count of how many! Whether you take the economy train as we did or the luxury Hiram Bingham train, you still have to take the bus at the end. Unless you opt for the 4 day hike in version. There are 2 good options for hotels in town, but the only option at Machu Picchu is the Sanctuary Lodge where we were lucky enough to stay for the night. It's a simple lodge, pretty small rooms with adequate bathrooms but not uncomfortable. You're paying for the privilege of being right at the site, first in the entry line in the morning and not taking the bus up and back. Don't expect views of Machu Picchu from your room, the buildings are not within view of the ruins.
We got there about 10am, checked in, and headed into the park. I didn't know what to expect, if it would disappoint after seeing it in photos for years. But it was all that and more, it's just hard to grasp that you're seeing it with your own eyes. What they built here, how they did it, what they knew - it asks as many questions as it answers. After a delicious lunch back at the lodge and a short rest, we had another guided hike in the late afternoon. At the top of the site, as the people empty out and the light lessens, it's so mystical that you can begin to imagine life here. So another dream becomes real, to set foot in Machu Picchu.
5AM wakeup call and a quick bite before heading into the park for a sunrise hike - going to the Sun Gate, hopefully to get up there at sunrise to see the city as the Incas did when they entered this gate. Challenging! Lots of uneven stone steps at the beginning and then a gradual steep grade, about 1000 feet elevation change on uneven surfaces. But it was spectacular, as the sun climbed over the mountain peaks parts of the city became lighter and the mists began to clear. After hiking back down to a hot shower and breakfast, some of our group decided to try the hike to the top of Huayna Picchu - not me! Straight up, narrow stone steps carved into the peak, no railings and it's straight down - what?? Bragging rights and terrific photos were not enough reasons so the rest of us did another guided hike late morning before having lunch and starting the return trip to Cusco. We spent another night at the Monasterio, reuniting with our luggage, then back to Lima and home.
Random interesting facts - potatoes originated in Peru and there are over 3000 varieties, the Spaniards brought them back to Spain in 1560.
The hats you see on the woman are very important, they indicate their level of schooling. Brown/black and a low crown - finished 6 years of elementary. A tall white hat indicates 11 years of schooling.
Lima airport is less crowded if you arrive and depart in the evenings. And don't forget to allow time to pay your departure tax - lines can be painfully long.
